Designing Long-Lasting Containers - FineGardening (2024)

We are all probably familiar with this scenario: You’ve created a beautiful container planting that brings you joy in spring, only to have that joy turn to dismay when the container needs constant refreshing throughout the remainder of the outdoor living season. Is it too much to expect that a plant combination that looks good in spring can last all summer and still perform into fall? It is absolutely possible to create beautiful container plantings that will perform for multiple seasons so that you can focus on enjoying, instead of maintaining, your outdoor oasis. It all starts with thoughtful plant choices for the style of planting you want. Let’s look at a few strategies for designs that go the distance.

Learn more: Six Ways to Improve Your Garden With Containers

Some annuals just seem to go on and on. Choosing your annuals wisely can gain you another month or two without having to replace plants. These annuals can give you a more tropical, seasonal vibe and are perfect for those who love bold color. Many annuals feature outstanding foliage, and some give the best of all worlds—amazing foliage plus abundant, colorful blooms. If you want to plant before the warm-season annuals are available, use spring pansies as colorful, inexpensive placeholders.

Strategy 1: Choose powerhouse annuals

Lasting tropical appeal

It’s easy to go tropical and still have a long-lasting container when you add a few perennial foliage plants to the mix. While some cannas have amazing, Technicolor-striped leaves, the simple green leaves here are set off by one of the many multipurpose euphorbia cultivars. The vincas provide a color echo and are additional extremely long bloomers, as is the ornamental oregano. The vinca and oregano will finally fade just as fall mums and pansies are coming into bloom, and a quick swap will keep the whole thing going until the first good freeze.

  1. Cannova® Red Shades canna lily (Canna × generalis ‘Cannova Red Shades’, Zones 7–11)
  2. ‘Ascot Rainbow’ euphorbia (Euphorbia × martinii ‘Ascot Rainbow’, Zones 6–9)
  3. Renegade cordyline (Cordyline ‘Tana’, Zones 8–11)
  4. ‘Black Forest Cake’ heuchera (Heuchera sanguinea ‘Black Forest Cake’, Zones 4–9)
  5. Titan™ Rose vinca (Catharanthus roseus ‘PAS336363’, Zones 10–11)
  6. ‘Kirigami’ ornamental oregano (Origanum ‘Kirigami’, Zones 6–9)
  7. ‘Goldilocks’ creeping Jenny (Lysimachia nummularia* ‘Goldilocks’, Zones 3–9)
  8. ‘Black Scallop’ ajuga (Ajuga reptans ‘Black Scallop’, Zones 3–9)

Plant palette

Color key: red, gold, purple

Seasonal update: In fall, replace the vinca (5) with ‘Morgana Red’ garden mum (Chrysanthemum morifolium ‘Morgana Red’, Zones 7–9) and the ornamental oregano (6) with Delta™ Premium Persian Medley pansy (Viola × wittrockiana ‘Delta Persian Medley’, Zones 7–10).

Bright blooms and sultry leaves

This planting shows the power of the fancy leaf geranium, which sets the palette for the entire combination. The chocolate color in the leaves is echoed by the purple fountain grass, a tender perennial that looks amazing all summer and ushers in fall with tall, glorious plumes. Dark ajuga grounds the combination, while the variegated bergenia seedheads are a surprising color echo as well. In the mild Pacific Northwest, this geranium blooms profusely even through the first chilly weeks of October. Now that is a powerhouse annual!

  1. Purple fountain grass (Pennisetum setaceum* ‘Rubrum’, Zones 9–10)
  2. ‘Tubby Andrews’ bergenia (Bergenia cordifolia ‘Tubby Andrews’, Zones 3–8)
  3. Tree aeonium (Aeonium arboreum, Zones 9–11)
  4. ‘Brocade Fire’ geranium (Pelargonium ‘Brocade Fire’, Zones 10–11)
  5. Sweet Caroline Bewitched Green With Envy™ sweet potato vine (Ipomoea batatas ‘NCORNSP-020BWGWE’, Zones 10–11)
  6. ‘Black Scallop’ ajuga (Ajuga reptans ‘Black Scallop’, Zones 3–9)

Plant palette

Color key: rust, lime, red, black

Seasonal update: In autumn, tuck in an ornamental pepper or a red-tinted viola (Viola cv., Zones 3–9) to replace the sweet potato vine (5).

Strategy 2: Build around an evergreen scaffold

By creating an evergreen or permanent deciduous structure, you can change up your annuals more often for those who like more variety. Think of your annuals as jewelry, ready for easy replacement when things get tough, or when you discover a new annual that you absolutely must try. Since most annuals have a relatively small root system, it’s easy to remove them without disturbing the larger, more permanent plants.

Warmth with a little sparkle

The main structure here is made up of plants that will last many seasons together. The tree retains its deep purple color well into fall and provides interesting branch structure for winter. Three long-blooming annuals add an extra pop of color for the warmer season. With this type of planting there are so many options for annuals, and you can change types each year for extra variety.

  1. Sunset Magic™ crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia ‘PIILAG-IX’, Zones 6–9)
  2. Spreading English yew (Taxus baccata ‘Repandens’, Zones 5–9)
  3. ‘Tricolor’ hebe (Hebe speciosa ‘Tricolor’, Zones 8–10)
  4. Forever® Red heuchera (Heuchera ‘TNHEUFR’, Zones 4–9)
  5. Angelface® White summer snapdragon (Angelonia angustifolia ‘Anwhitim’, Zones 10–11)
  6. Lascar™ Black Velvet verbena (Verbena ‘KLEVP15618’, Zones 10–11)
  7. ‘Silver Falls’ dichondra (Dichondra argentea ‘Silver Falls’, Zones 8–10)

Plant palette

Color key: purple, white, red

Seasonal update: In spring, start off with ‘Penny Peach Jump Up’ viola (Viola ‘Penny Peach Jump Up’, Zones 4–8) in place of the verbena (6), and a white narcissus in place of the snapdragon (5).

A fresh mix of fun foliage

Three evergreen plants anchor this combination: burgundy New Zealand flax, variegated white euphorbia, and cushion bush. The perennial yarrow is a long bloomer, and the faded blooms are retained and add interest even when turning tawny. The addition of three stellar annuals makes this a long-lived combination, especially as it relies on only one blooming plant for color. In late summer, replacing the zinnia with an upright sedum will push the combo further into fall.

  1. ‘Sundowner’ New Zealand flax (Phormium ‘Sundowner’, Zones 8–11)
  2. Silver Swan euphorbia (Euphorbia characias ‘Wilcott’, Zones 7–10)
  3. ‘Double Profusion Hot Cherry’ zinnia (Zinnia ‘Double Profusion Hot Cherry’, annual)
  4. ‘Sassy Summer Sangria’ yarrow (Achillea millefolium ‘Sassy Summer Sangria’, Zones 3–8)
  5. ‘Great Falls Iguazu’ coleus (Plectranthus scutellarioides ‘Great Falls Iguazu’, Zones 10–11)
  6. ‘Silver Stone’ cushion bush (Calocephalus brownii ‘Silver Stone’, Zones 9–11)
  7. Irish moss (Sagina subulata, Zones 4–8)
  8. SolarPower™ Red Heart sweet potato vine (Ipomoea batatas ‘Balsolaredar’, Zones 10–11)

Plant palette

Color key: magenta, wine, silver, white

Seasonal update: In fall, replace the zinnia (3) and the yarrow (4) with ‘Neon’ sedum (Hylotelephium spectabile ‘Neon’, Zones 3–9), and the coleus (5) and the sweet potato vine (8) with ornamental cabbage.

Strategy 3: Go all in on foliage

This is the simplest way to get three or four seasons of performance out of your plant combinations. Combining primarily evergreen plants may not feature bushels of blooms, but that doesn’t mean they have to be boring. Choosing a mix of conifers and broadleaf evergreens with an eye toward contrasting foliage color, texture, and form can give spectacular results, and such a combination has a certain soothing quality that is perfect for those who want as little maintenance as possible.

Crisply contrasting colors

This is another example of the variety that you can get when you pay special attention to foliage. Picking up the color of the pot is an easy first step toward color harmony; the white-veined sedge and the gray of the cushion bush echo the pot and provide liveliness amid the darker foliage. The key is to surround each plant with foliage of different colors to keep the eye moving around the design as a whole. Only the sedum is deciduous, and the other plants will readily fill that hole when the time comes. Topping the soil with a coordinating pebble mulch adds a little extra sophistication.

  1. ‘Sundance’ Mexican orange blossom (Choisya ternata ‘Sundance’, Zones 7–10)
  2. Cushion bush (Calocephalus brownii, Zones 9–11)
  3. ‘Sunset Boulevard’ hebe (Hebe ‘Sunset Boulevard’, Zones 8–10)
  4. ‘Frosted Fire’ sedum (Hylotelephium ‘Frosted Fire’, Zones 4–8)
  5. ‘Diamond Heights’ Carmel creeper (Ceanothus griseus var. horizontalis ‘Diamond Heights’, Zones 8–10)
  6. Everest sedge (Carex oshimensis ‘Carfit01’, Zones 5–9)
  7. ‘Black Scallop’ ajuga (Ajuga reptans ‘Black Scallop’, Zones 3–9)

Plant palette

Color key: yellow, gray, lime, black

Seasonal update: For four seasons of color, replace the sedum (4) with an evergreen such as ‘Shimmer’ heuchera (Heuchera ‘TNHEUSHI’, Zones 4–9).

Fine lines and frilly textures

With multiple shades of green and different textures, this container shows how interesting foliage can be. Note the range of leaf colors: lime, emerald, gold, and nearly black. Pay special attention to stem colors or veining, as with the heuchera at center stage with its bright orange veining, and the delicate white veining on the wintercreeper. In this group, only the parsley leopard plant will die back; a light covering of cut winter boughs tucked into the soil around the crown is a great way to fill the space until its glorious return in spring.

  1. ‘Wilma Goldcrest’ Monterey cypress (Cupressus macrocarpa ‘Wilma Goldcrest’, Zones 7–10)
  2. ‘Green Globe’ Lawson cypress (Chamaecyparis lawsoniana ‘Green Globe’, Zones 5–9)
  3. ‘Everillo’ sedge (Carex oshimensis ‘Everillo’, Zones 5–9)
  4. ‘Shishi Botan’ parsley leopard plant (Farfugium japonicum ‘Shishi Botan’, Zones 7–10)
  5. ‘Delta Dawn’ heuchera (Heuchera ‘Delta Dawn’, Zones 4–9)
  6. ‘Wolong Ghost’ silver-veined wintercreeper (Euonymus fortunei* ‘Wolong Ghost’, Zones 4–9)
  7. ‘Black Scallop’ ajuga (Ajuga reptans ‘Black Scallop’, Zones 3–9)

Plant palette

Color key: black, gold, lime, orange

Seasonal update: In winter, tuck in some evergreen boughs to cover the crown of the parsley leopard plant (4).

*Invasive alerts:

Creeping Jenny (Lysimachia nummularia)

This plant is considered invasive in AK, CT, IL, KY, MA, NH, OR, PA, RI, TN, VA, WI, and WV.

Purple fountain grass (Pennisetum setaceum)

This plant is considered invasive in AZ, CA, and NM.

Wintercreeper (Euonymus fortunei)

This plant is considered invasive in AL, IL, IN, KY, MD, MO, NC, NH, NJ, NY, TN, VA, WI, and WV.

Please visitinvasiveplantatlas.orgfor more information.

Barbara Libner is the head container designer and chief merchandiser at Ravenna Gardens in Seattle.

Photos by Barbara Libner.

From Fine Gardening #205

Designing Long-Lasting Containers - FineGardening (2024)

FAQs

What is the rule of thumb for container gardening? ›

Keep the size and quantity of plants in proportion to the pot. Rule of thumb – The height of the tallest plant shouldn't exceed one to two times the height of a tall container or the width of a low bowl. When the container has a pedestal, it's usually not necessary to include it in the overall container measurement.

How to layout a container garden? ›

You can assemble the container in any way you see fit, but it's helpful to plant the biggest plant, the thriller, first so you don't have to make room for it later. Then add the fillers around the base of the thriller, followed by the spillers trailing over the edge of the pots.

How do you prepare containers for gardening? ›

Container Gardening – Preparing your Container

To start, you will want to make sure the pot is clear of any debris, especially if it has been used previously. A quick thorough rinse with a hose should do the trick. The next step is to fill the container with potting mix.

What plants grow best in containers? ›

Some plants work well in pots all year round. These include hardy evergreen foliage plants like yucca, English ivy variegated euonymus and heuchera, and flowering plants like Skimmia japonica and hebes.

How do you make a successful container garden? ›

10 Container Garden Tips for Beginners
  1. 01 of 10. Don't Skimp on Drainage. ...
  2. 02 of 10. Evaluate Your Light. ...
  3. 03 of 10. Feed Your Plants. ...
  4. 04 of 10. Make a List Before You Go to Buy Plants. ...
  5. 05 of 10. Plant Good Neighbors. ...
  6. 06 of 10. Read and Save the Plant Tag. ...
  7. 07 of 10. Acclimate Your Plants. ...
  8. 08 of 10. The More Potting Soil the Better.
Apr 20, 2022

Which shape of container works the best for container gardening? ›

A square pot also gives more volume for the same height, as well as more surface area for planting, than a round pot. This means there is more space to pack in potting soil and nutrients. Having this extra space is great if you want to grow rows of flowers or you are cultivating herbs for consumption.

How to organize a container garden? ›

To keep things lively as the plants grow, I simply move the containers—farther apart, up, down, to the front, to the rear—to create a display that is always evolving. The portability of plants in pots frees me from some of the constraints of traditional earthbound gardening.

How do you calculate how many plants you need? ›

A plant per square foot calculator can help you determine the correct number of plants required per area and square footage. For a square bed, multiply the length of the bed by its width to determine how many plants per square foot.

What is the best mix for container gardening? ›

2 parts compost. 2 parts peat moss. 1 part perlite or vermiculite.

What is the cheapest way to make a container garden? ›

Food-grade buckets, grower's pots, and plastic dishpans are all good to use as cheap gardening containers for growing plants. Just remember to add drainage holes. Containers can often be found at yard sales, thrift stores, and other secondhand vendors.

What are some essential factors in selecting a container for gardening? ›

Size, shape and drainage are critical factors in the selection of the container that will provide the best environment for growth of your plants. Size: For free-standing and table plants, the size of the planter should be proportionate to plant size, allowing ample room for root systems.

What not to plant in containers? ›

If your garden space is limited to what you can grow in containers, it's probably best to skip these veggies:
  • Potatoes. Although it's technically possible to grow some varieties of spuds in large containers, they are better off planted in the ground.
  • Pumpkins and winter squash. ...
  • Fruit trees. ...
  • Sweet corn. ...
  • Carrots.
Jun 4, 2023

What is #1 container in gardening? ›

The actual number refers to the approximate size of the container and how much soil it holds. For example, a number-one (#1) container holds approximately one gallon of soil.

How do you calculate what will fit in a container? ›

Measure each individual box, bin, pallet or crate to determine the volume of each shipping unit. Divide 90 percent of the total shipping volume of the shipping container by the volume of the shipping unit to estimate the number of boxes, bins, pallets or crates that will fit inside your container.

How many plants should you put in a container? ›

10" to 12" pot can hold 3-4 plants. 14" to 16" pot can hold 5-7 plants. 16" to 20" pot can hold 6-9 plants.

Can a container be too big for a plant? ›

In a too-large pot, soil dries slowly, making your plant more susceptible to root rot. When a plant is too large for its pot, it also has a tendency to tip over. In a too-small pot, soil dries so quickly that you will be challenged to water frequently enough.

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